I’m often accused of being too idealistic, especially as concerns vegetables. When asked by an acquaintance what should be done with some fresh produce, my answer is likely to be “eat it.” Few like this answer. What people want is involved discussions of methods and cooking times, seasonings and gimmicky preparations. I’m tired of arguing; if eating pristine vegetables raw is a philosophy, then so be it. But neither do I have an agenda; I’m just convinced that it is often misguided to try and improve upon what a good farmer can coax from the soil.

Sadly, the instant vegetables are discussed the emphasis predictably shifts to health. My understanding is that some raw vegetables retain higher levels of nutrients than their cooked counterparts while others, most notably, capsicum, achieve higher levels following a shake in the pan. The problem is the vegetable enthusiast, a type of extremist foodie who wishes nothing more than to radicalize the moderate vegetable eater to their cause—whether that cause be bales of raw kale or buckets of lycopene-rich stewed peepers. I refuse to choose; I enjoy vegetables too much to be governed by so narrow a (vegetable) world view. I boil, braise, sauté and eat raw in equal measure. My guiding principle is no more idealistic than good taste.

That said, the raw vegetable does deserve a closer look. A good start to a meal is refreshing, balanced, texturally interesting but not too strongly flavored. For these reasons raw vegetables are difficult to beat. Baby carrots trimmed of their tops and scrubbed are ideal for dipping in premium olive oil and sea salt. Radishes anointed with salted, cultured butter are excellent too. Cauliflower has terrific texture—a toothsome, crumbling resistance rather than the crisp snap common of most vegetables—but the standard white variety has always seemed rather uninspiring. These days baby cauliflower seem to show up in farmer’s markets in an array of colors, from deep wine to palest green. Sliced thinly, drizzled with olive oil and seasoned with sea salt and freshly cracked pepper, guests will be as dazzled by the presentation as they will be puzzled at how delicious so few ingredients can be.

Speaking of slicing thinly, raw vegetables require either developed knife skills (and a sharp blade) or a mandolin slicer. I dislike job-specific gadgets, but must make an exception for the latter, which is a simple board with a fixed, graduated blade. There are expensive food-service versions with precision-mounted adjustable blades and stands, but cheap, handheld Japanese models work just as well (and somewhat assuage the guilt felt over acquiring a kitchen gadget). And as it happens, autumn is the ideal time of year for thinly sliced vegetables, as heartier roots, bulbs and stalks stand up well to the rigor of the preparation. A good mandolin will make fast work of anything from dense beets to fibrous broccoli stalks. The resulting mound will be crisp and pleasantly colorful, virtually crying out to be made into a first course for a cool weather meal. If there are any raw-vegetable skeptics left, the following salad should bring them round.

Shaved Raw Winter Vegetable Salad

Using a mandolin, thinly shave rounds of carrot, beet, celery, fennel, peeled broccoli stem and apple. Dress lightly with a good vinaigrette. Mound in the center of individual plates or large service platter. Sprinkle with chopped parsley and black pepper. Using a vegetable peeler, shave slivers of aged Manchego cheese over the salad and serve.