More than any other element of the masculine wardrobe, trouser fashion is really a function of physics. Whereas lapel widths might be endlessly variable according to the whims of the influential, the design of trousers takes place within rather narrow boundaries. They must either be suspended by some means or be low and snug enough to resist gravity on their own. Fashion vacillates between silhouettes every twenty years or so, but the general architecture of the garment remains a choice between the two.

While braces and side straps are unquestionably my preference on suits, dinner clothes and most odd trousers, I haven’t banished the belt altogether. When they fit, jeans should resist gravity on their own, but they look strange without a belt. Denim, with its pronounced twill and variegated coloring, seems to cry out for something rich put through its loops. I like substantial bridle leather in mottled tan or mid-brown, and brass for the buckle because steel is pedestrian and sterling far too costly for an accessory designed for less formal use.

If luxury is the goal, though, it’s hard to do better than alligator or crocodile. Unless expertly worn, shoes made from exotic skins can easily seem too flash. A strip of the stuff around the waist, though, provides an appealing texture and welcome departure from the expected matching calf of the wearer's shoes. I have had a dark brown alligator belt for almost twenty years that still sees regular use. Some combination of cracked finish, faded coloring, obvious repairs and perceived luxury makes it one of the more versatile objects in my wardrobe.

A webbing belt in a particularly sedate color. Try one in red, bottle-green or navy.

Far cheaper ways of achieving similar pleasing effects can be had with belts made from webbing, ribbon, or crochet. This is perhaps the best way to introduce a cheeky aspect to non-suit-wearing occasions; a flash of brightly colored grosgrain beneath an open blazer is a well-understood play by style icons past and present. The most famous example is perhaps the silk ties Fred Astaire threaded through his high-waisted trousers. Better still, there is a picture somewhere of the Duke of Windsor wearing a pale rope around his tidy waist. One might be forgiven for wondering if this was a wistful reference to his abandonment of duty—a sort of sardonic symbol of shirked responsibilities. I’m waiting for some brazen young designer to make one of braided coaxial cable in a similar nod to abdication from an expected role.

If there is a common theme here it is belts should honor their military and sporting heritage. “Dress belts,” those slim straps made of anonymous black calf and adorned with sleek buckles, aren’t nearly as useful as belts made from textured, whimsical or somewhat rustic ingredients. Formal versions of innately informal objects often have this problem. Belts signify informality, and that’s fine. Whether braces, side straps or belts, just make sure whatever is doing the lifting is capable; while fashionably slim pants won’t result in arrest, those worn around the ankles very likely will.

Bridle leather in all its thick, mottled glory.